Gas and electric water heater repair in Salem

A tank water heater has only a handful of parts that wear out, and most of them can be replaced in an hour or two. The trick is testing before swapping parts. We check the gas supply, the flame, the electrical readings and the condition of the tank itself, so you only pay for the part that actually failed.

Sometimes the honest answer is that the tank is near the end. A heater that is leaking from the body, rusted through at the base, or old enough that a big repair costs a large share of a new unit is worth a frank conversation. We tell you which situation you are in before any work starts.

Pilot, thermocouple and flame sensor problems on gas tanks

Older gas heaters use a standing pilot and a thermocouple, a small metal rod that sits in the pilot flame and makes a tiny electrical current. That current tells the gas valve it is safe to stay open. When the thermocouple wears out, the pilot lights but dies as soon as you let go of the button.

Newer models use a hot surface igniter and a flame sensor instead. If the sensor gets coated with soot or dust, the control cannot tell the burner is lit and shuts the gas off after a few seconds. Cleaning or replacing it usually brings the heat back.

When the gas control valve is the culprit

The gas control valve on the front of the tank holds the thermostat, the pilot circuit and the main gas shutoff in one unit. When it fails, the burner may refuse to light, cycle on and off, or overheat the water. Many newer valves flash a status light code that tells us which circuit is at fault. A failed valve is replaced as a whole part, and we leak-test every gas joint afterward.

Testing elements and thermostats on electric heaters

Most electric tanks have two heating elements, upper and lower, each with its own thermostat. The upper element heats first, then hands off to the lower one. If you get a short burst of hot water and then lukewarm, the lower element or its thermostat has often failed. With no hot water at all, we look at the upper side and the high-limit reset button.

• Shut off power at the breaker before any testing
• Measure element resistance with a meter, not by guessing
• Check each thermostat for proper switching and settings
• Inspect wiring at the terminals for heat damage

Sediment, popping noises and a worn anode rod

Minerals and grit settle to the bottom of every tank over time. On a gas heater, water trapped under that layer flashes to steam and pops or rumbles when the burner runs. On electric tanks, sediment can bury the lower element and burn it out. Flushing the tank clears loose sediment, and we check how much has hardened.

The anode rod is a metal rod hung inside the tank that corrodes so the steel tank does not. Once it is eaten down to bare wire, the tank itself starts to rust. Replacing a worn anode can add useful years to a heater that is otherwise sound.